Here is a fun watch: One of our customers who recently purchased a Milgauss decided to put it on an Orange Zulu strap. I think it’s a great look.
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Milgauss on a Zulu
Tags: milgauss, nato, orange, Rolex, watches, zulu
Comments (1)July 3, 2008 – 10:05 am
Tuesday Tools - Roller Jewel Setting Tweezers
Tags: , roller jewel, Tuesday Tools, Tweezers, watchmaking
Comments (1)July 2, 2008 – 7:16 pm
I have never seen this tool in real life or in any modern catalog but it looks terribly useful. The rare time when I need to reset a roller jewel I have found it to be a somewhat awkward task. This tool appears to make it practical and easy. Click on the image for a larger image which will facilitate reading the accompanying text. Where can I get one of these?
What a watchmaker does at the beach
Tags: beach, Rolex, sand castle, watches
Comments (0)June 27, 2008 – 8:55 am
You know you are into watches when this is how you spend your time at the beach:
2824 Keyless Works
Tags: eta 2824, eta 2892, keyless works, watchmaking
Comments (0)June 26, 2008 – 12:31 pm
Following up on yesterday’s post I’ll make a quick note about the keyless works (winding and setting) of the ETA 2824 and 2892 movements. It is quite easy to dislodge the set lever and/or yoke when removing and/or inserting the winding stem. The barrel bridge has a slot in it which is meant for you to use a screwdriver to depress the set lever so you can remove the stem. Pushing the set lever down beyond the bottom of the slot (like with a sharp object) can result in the setting parts dislodging, but even when using the right size screwdriver you can sometimes have problems. When you do come across a problem it means you have to remove the dial and hands and date indicator ring to restore the winding and setting parts to their proper places — this can be a real headache.
The key, I have found is to depress the set lever only as far as necessary and for only as long as necessary. I slowly push down on the set lever post while pulling on the stem slowly. As soon as the stem begins to release from the set lever I stop pulling on it and release the pressure from the set lever pin. I then pull the stem the rest of the way out. When replacing the stem I insert it in until it contacts the set lever and gently press down on the post while turning until the stem slides into place. This method works much more often than the simply “using a screwdriver’.
I think the key here is slow, steady, and patient. If you are in a hurry you could screw it up.
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The Parts Issue Continues
Tags: maurice lacroix, spare parts, watches, watchmaking
Comments (2)June 25, 2008 – 8:46 pm
I have been out of town for a few days and of course the work piled up while I was gone. I spent most of today estimating repairs.
One of the watches I dealt with today was a Maurice Lacroix automatic that I serviced one year ago. It had stopped working and when it came to me this time the oscillating weight had separated at the rivet, and the mainspring was broken. The watch houses an ETA 2834. I can get all the parts for the movement from any parts supply house except the oscillating weight which is signed Maurice Lacroix. Of course, I phone up Maurice Lacroix so I can hear them say what I already know. They don’t sell movement parts. If I send them the watch they will want to do a full service (but it was just serviced). I was able to re-rivet the weight back together but it gave me a bit of a scare. If I had not been able to repair the weight I would have been stuck sending the watch to them and either, losing a bunch of money on the repair, or making the customer pay for the repair.
This little scenario begs the question. Do I need to refuse every watch that I can’t get parts for, even if it houses a basic ETA movement? I don’t think I can keep entirely busy repairing only the few brands that will take care of me by supplying parts.
To add to the problems I screwed up the keyless works which will give me a topic to write about tomorrow. The day ended up okay with the watch reassembled and working.
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Water Resistance Explained
Tags: Titanic, watches, water proof, water resistance
Comments (1)June 18, 2008 – 8:28 pm
Watches are often rated as water resistant. Many years ago some watches were labeled “water proof” but this is no longer a legal practice. Instead a watch can be lableled water resistant and a pressure rating can be assigned.
Water is a powerful substance. At the depth of the Titanic shipwreck most watches would be crushed by the force of the water (as would all people not enclosed in a specially designed vessel). This is why it is important to rate them. Unfortunately the ratings can be confusing. Most watches rated at 30 meters probably wouldn’t fare too well under 30 meters of water. You really should have at least a rating of 50 meters if you plan on submerging your watch regularly. The following excerpt is from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry:
Water resistance is measured in bars (unit of pression, 1 bar being equivalent to 1 atmosphere), and watches are tested at these pressures for certain period of time. Exceptional pressure, as when diving, may exceed those limits, so if you are a keen diver you will need a watch that can tolerate that pounding.
Translation varies and your best guide is your supplier as it will almost certainly be part of the guaranteee.Manufacturers often measure water resistance to a number of feet (ft), meters (m) or atmospheres (atm). Watches marked “water resistant” with or without additional indication of high pressure must comply with NIHS 92-10 watch Standard (corresponding to ISO 2281 international Standard). Such watches are designed for everyday life and must be water resistant during exercices such as short swimmings. They can be worn in different temperature and pressure conditions but are under no circumstances designed for scuba diving.
Divers’ watches must be water resistant at 330 ft minimum. They must also feature a time controller and comply with standards provided by NIHS 92-11 (ISO 6425) : luminosity, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, band solidity.
Remember that if you are going to be moutain climbing, parachuting, sky diving, hang gliding, or skiing, you will need a watch that is atm damage-protected as pressures change both above and below sea level.
For regular water use, solid metal cases or specially constructed products are recommended, including screwed-in case backs and crowns.
Do not hesitate to ask your next dealer about water resistance functions, and remember that only professional changing battery will guarantee the seals and thus the water resistance of your timepiece.
A more reasonable and easy to understand explanation follows:
- Water resistant with no depth rating given. Ok for rain and washing hands
- Water-resistant to 30 meters (100 feet). Will withstand splashes of water or rain but should not be worn while swimming or diving.
- Water-tested to 50 meters (165 feet). Suitable swimming in shallow water.
- Water-tested to 100 meters (330 feet). Suitable for swimming and snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 150 meters (500 feet). Suitable for snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 200 meters (660 feet). Suitable for skin diving.
- Divers 150 meters (500 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
- Divers 200 meters (660 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
- Divers 1000m (3900 feet). Do what you want with it, but don’t visit the Titanic.
- Divers 3900m (12,800 feet). Do whatever you want, including visit the Titanic.
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Tuesday Tools - Crystal Lift
Tags: crystal lift, Tuesday Tools, watchmaking
Comments (0)June 17, 2008 – 7:57 pm
This is a simple tool for removing the acrylic crystal from a one piece case design. The claws grip on the outside rim of the crystal compressing it until it can be raised out of the case, giving access to the movement. The tool can also be used to install the same crystal back into the case. Squeeze too hard and the crystal may crack. Don’t get the tool properly aligned on the crystal it may slip off leaving a nasty scratch. It does do the job however. An alternative method is a pump which pops the crystal off with pressurized air — never tried that before.
Apprenticeship?
Tags: apprenticeship, watchmaking, Watchmaking School
Comments (0)June 16, 2008 – 8:19 pm
I’ve spent quite a bit of time talking about my watchmaking school experience but is it the only way to become a watchmaker? Well, no. If you can find a master watchmaker in your area you could apprentice (assuming he is willing.) In today’s world this may be a great opportunity because the master watchmaker is probably well past retirement age and you may just be able to take over his shop and clients. Watchmakers in the western United States are few and far between and since that is where I want to live the apprenticeship thing just wouldn’t work for me.
I would caution anyone wanting to take this approach to be sure and seek out a Master watchmaker. The word
Sometimes I wish I worked with a master watchmaker, but alas, I do not. Lucky for me I do have an ever expanding network of watchmakers I can reach out to when I need a little extra help. Communication is key for aspiring watchmakers. When a trade is perceived as a potential lost art there should be no secrets. Share and share alike.
Articles on LWT
Tags: Lititz Watch Technicum, watchmaking, Watchmaking School
Comments (0)June 13, 2008 – 11:05 am
There have been several articles written on LWT here are links to several I know about:
South Paws
Tags: left handed, panerai, Rolex, watches, watchmaking
Comments (2)June 12, 2008 – 12:03 pm
That’s right left handed individuals this one is for you. — I had a gentleman come in the other day whose bezel had popped off of his submariner. He complained that he had entirely lost his bezel before and that it has come off several times. I found this a bit odd because it is not a frequent problem. Yes, it happens, but it is usually a rare occurrence which results because of some kind of terrible accident. Then he slipped the watch on his wrist. His right wrist and I figured it out.
A right handed individual usually wears their watch on the left wrist. This places the crown and it’s guards on the exposed side of the wrist. These protrusions actually protect the lip of the bezel from getting knocked and therefore protect the bezel from coming off. When you switch the watch over to the right hand the unprotected side of the watch is out against the hand exposed to the hard knocks of life. Since the bezel protrudes quite a bit it would be much easier for the bezel to get knocked off.
I always assumed that “left-handed watches” were mostly for convenience in winding and setting but I see now that there are other practical advantages to a left-handed watch. Unfortunately there are very few brands who make a left-handed wristwatch. Rolex isn’t one of them, but Panerai is.
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